Hazel is a rather remarkable plant and definitely up there on the super shrubs list. It has a number of uses, not only to wildlife but humans too. In fact, we have an ancient relationship with this plant. It is one of the most resourceful plants I know and offers gardeners and designers a beautiful, easy-to-manage shrub for the garden border or woodland edge.
Technically, hazel is pollinated by the wind rather than relying on our pollinating insects. Yet it does provide a very early source of pollen for bees if they need it via tassel-like catkins. These catkins form the male part of the plant while the female flowers take the form of small buds. If you happen to walk near a hazel in early Spring [you might still be able to see this now] look out for these little buds with bright red stigmas poking out from them; they should catch your eye. If these buds are pollinated they turn into a nut. Interestingly, despite hazel trees possessing both male and female parts [known as monoecious] they will only cross pollinate with pollen from another variety of hazel tree. So if you plan to grow them for their fruits, plant two or, better still, three different varieties. Hazel also sustains a range of butterflies and moths, primarily as a choice breeding spot and a reliable source of leafy food for caterpillars. The caterpillars in turn provide easy pickings for birds and if you are lucky the rather cute Hazel dormouse.
Our relationship with Hazel is said to go back thousands of years. It is one of those plants that will be the first to start growing in cleared or barren areas of ground making it extremely common up and down the country. For this reason it is incredibly sustainable as it is local and abundant. Our native Hazel, Corylus avellana, has been used for centuries as a material for creating fences, plant supports [eg arches, obelisks], can be whittled into various guises like walking/foraging sticks and clothes pegs. It is also a good source for making charcoal. Hazel is traditionally coppiced, allowed to grow for 3 to 5 years [longer if the stems are needed thicker] before being cut down to the ground. New shoots will form into very straight stems due to this hard cut back. It won’t do the plant any harm either as they are naturally adapted to be ‘grazed’. In fact they will last over a 100 years if treated that way.
In our own gardens we don’t have to be quite so hard in cutting back all the stems in one fell swoop. After all we still want to have the aesthetic benefit of a lovely shrub to gaze on, so aim take out two to three stems in the winter [once plants are a few year’s old]. When the Hazel matures you will be able to cut out more.
There are a number of different varieties of Hazel to choose from too. I’m rather partial to the deep red leafed ones. Corylus maxima 'Atropurpurea' has beautiful, wine red leaves that emerge in the Spring. By late summer they can fade and lose that lovely rich colour so I try to plant in part shade, perfect for a woodland edge or shady side of a garden. Other varieties that would be perfect for adding to an orchard would be the cobnuts Corylus avellana ‘Cosford’ and Corylus avellana ‘Gunslebert’. Both will cross pollinate each other too and ensure a good fruit set. For more info have a look at fruit tree nursery Orange Pippin; they have a number of varieties available for starting a mini nuttery.